Sunday, September 16, 2012

Cali - Capital da Salsa

Why exactly come here to Cali? I have no idea, specially considering I have no dancing skills whatsoever and this is the Salsa capital of the world. Maybe because it was close to Medellín and Bogotá and there were 2 more days with nothing to do in the trip.
Fact is now there's no coming back. A quick stroll downtown shows absolutely nothing besides some weird dudes and some weird areas. That was followed by a quick escape to a shopping mall, that heaven of civilisation we all ran to to forget when we see to much beggars and dirt downtown.

Hostels in Colombia owned by foreigners / Albergues na Colômbia são de estrangeiros

This seems to be a trend here. Almost every hostel is owned by a foreigner. That means, a male foreigner who fell in love with a Colombian girl, then moved here and opened a Hostel. The interesting fact is that it's never the opposite, the foreign girl falling in love with the Colombian guys. I'm not implying anything :D


Friday, September 14, 2012

San Andres - part 3

I believe only 2 streets have name around here. Pretty much all the streets either don't have a name or don't have any signs. Believe me when I say it IS possible to get lost. Directions to places are often vague and usually state the place you are looking for is near something. Google Maps is bad here and cellphone GPS cannot find you without a cellular connection.
Another interesting thing is that the island is full of motorcycles. Everyone and their dog have a motorcycle. In the streets motorcycles outnumber cars by 20 to 1. I'd guess that's a side effect on the fact that gasoline has to come by boat as well which probably won't make it very cheap. There are literally traffic jams of motorcycles.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

San Andres part 2

San Andres impresses me more every day. Yesterday a torrencial rain was falling for about 20 minutes and it flooded all the main streets. About 15 minutes later the roads were dry again.
The official language is Spanish but you can quickly figure out that the native islanders actually speak English, or some sort of English language. There are several Baptist churches, each one has one of those yellow school buses. One could quickly derive a division of the island between the native baptist guys and the catholic, Colombian colonizers.
The island signature drink is the CocoLoco (Crazy Coconut) made with Rum and coconut water.

Today the chore of the day was to do a bike tour by the island. Bike rental costs about 25000 per day. You can also rent golf cart for about 100000 COP.
I'd say bike is better as you pay less and exercise more :)
It took only 4 hours on slow speed to circle the island, it's really tiny. With the possibility of repeating myself too much, I have to once again say the views are extremely amazing.



CocoLoco

Flood downtown

Busy in the office



Green and blue go well together



FARC vs Colombia

The most heated discussion of the moment here in Colombia is the fact that the president is in talks with FARC (Guerrilla group famous for terrorist attacks and for controlling drug cartels) to make peace. The war is ongoing for over 50 years and it seems the government has had enough. It may be easier now to make peace as the government allegedly killed the main FARC guys over the last 3 years.
Sadly there's a lot of people profiting from this war, so I'm not sure the peace talks will go any further.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

San Andres / Johnny Cay / Haynes Cay / Rose Cay

The archipelago of San Andres is a set of small islands on the Caribbean, and although it belongs to Colombia it's very far from there (It's about the same latitude as Nicaragua). Actually Nicaragua is currently claiming it so they're deciding it on the justice.

We have arrived yesterday here and there's even a sort of immigration process when you arrive due to the tourism fee (46000COP per person). Then there's police checking for drugs when you leave Medellín and here.
San Andres seems to have come out of one of those magazines. The sea has 7 colours as they say, with all layers of blue available.
There are several duty free shops as well, but they are prone to copycat brands so one must be very careful.
Today we did the trip to the small islands Johnny Cay/Rose Cay/Haynes Cay.

Rose Cay/Haynes Cay are actually next to each other and are very small islands. Rose Cay is about the size of 2 houses actually LOL. But they are located right next to several coral reefs. There are also tons of fishes so Snorkeling is big there. The fishes come very close to you and there are fishes from all existing colours. It's simply amazing and hard to describe, that's why I'm posting a lot of pictures.
Johnny Cay is not so big on reefs but it's the definition of a Caribbean island with palm trees, colourful sea and beautiful scenery!


Are you counting the colours?



Statistics show 99% of people take pictures with open arms





Tough life bro!


Monday, September 10, 2012

Barranquilla part 2




Barranquilla once again just overnight to pick the morning flight to Medellín. This time I bought the ticket at the bus station. 2 differences from the other time:
1. it cost less (10000 pesos).
2. It had air conditioning.

Looking closely at the map I found out that the bus terminal is quite close to the airport, so a taxi would be better the other day.
A nice taxi ride to the hostel takes about 45 minutes (15000COP). The hostel is The Meeting Point, a big house turned into hostel. It's very cozy, very big and there's a nice patio on the back. The owner is an Italian from Milan, very friendly and helpful.
This time I got to see another Barranquilla, the upper scale one, with nice houses and apartment buildings. Also I found out that the Rickshaws are not allowed in Barranquilla. They're only available around Soledad which is the city where the airport and the bus terminal are, and Colombians call them motocarros.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

Taganga

Taganga is a fisher village about 15 minutes away from Santa Marta. You can get there by one of the mini buses in the Carrera 5. As of september 2012 bus fee is 1200 COP.
It's famous destination for Snorkel lovers. The views are really amazing though the beach is ver short (about 300m if much). From Taganga you can go to Playa Grande, another small beach, about 20 minutes walk away. There are some folks who can take you there by boat as well. There're 2 or 3 policemen at about the middle of the path so it's very safe.
The tricky part is that it's very sinuous up the mountain and down the mountain on the other side. It's also very close to a precipice so you must be careful. Playa Grande is pretty like a swimming pool, cristal water, you can see the bottom of the sean even on parts where it's like 2m deep. You may also rent a kayak. The snorkel party happens closer to the Aguja island.


Seat in the mini bus



Cristal Clear water




Friday, September 7, 2012

Santa Marta and Tayrona Park

Wow! Just Wow!
I had never seen blue ocean.
At least not like this.
Cristal clear water, blue ocean in various blue tones.
White sand.
There are not enough words to describe. I just can't understand how I could live without seeing this.
Santa Marta is vibrant beach city, however the best beaches as usual are not here close to town. Actually there's a port in here.
Again here like in all of Colombia streets are numbers instead of names so it's so easy to find things around.
It seems Santa Marta is the oldest city in Colombia as it was founded in 1525.
It really has some very old buildings downtown, specially around the Cathedral.
If you come here please go to what seems to be the best restaurant in town Agave Azul. It has to be mean luck to find it as it's the best food in town. Mexican food with awesome taste.
It's a common hub for people willing to go to Tayrona Park (Other amount of people actually camp in the park as the entrance fee is quite high at 36500 COP for foreigners).
To go to the Tayrona Park you go to Calle 11 with Carrera 11 and take a bus there to the Park entrance (Los Zainos Gate) for 5000 COP. Once there, you pay the entrance fee and get a free map. There's a small bus that takes you from the gate to the star of the path (it's about 5km far away).
Once in the start of the path you'll likely start in the Sendero Arrecifes which takes you to Arrecifes beach. You can also rent a horse :)
The track is amazing in between the trees with that lovely smell of wood. This track is about 3.2km long (about 2 miles) and it takes about 50 minutes to get there. It really does as it's up and down all the way besides a part in the beach fluffy sand.
It pays the walk as the view over there is mind boggling. There are several beaches in this way and you can reach them all by walking. There's not much infrastructure and thank you Colombian government for not allowing cars in this area. Cars simply spoil everything besides the fact that everybody becomes a psychopath while driving a car.
Some of the beaches on the way are Cañaveral, Arrecifes, Piscina, El Cabo San Juan, Boca del Saco and the nudist beach. From all these the Piscina beach is the most impressing since as the name states it's a swimming pool. Calm and warm blue water. There's something about the blue color and the way it makes us calmer and unstressed.
The walk to the last beach is very long, probably around 8km, it can take up to 3 hours, but I assure you'll never get tired. Now what the hell are you waiting for to come to the Caribe?









Thursday, September 6, 2012

Barranquilla and Rickshaws

Barranquilla is Shakira's home town and a hub for most of the Colombian caribbean beaches. But I had now idea how it was like before getting there. Unfortunately google street view has not arrived in Colombia yet.
I was curious as to what was the effect of coming from 1800m above sea level Medellín to Barranquilla at sea level. And the effect was nothing. Except maybe for the humidity and the high temperature (that feeling you are inside a pressure pan).
We take a bus from the airport with the intention to go to the bus terminal.
The bus goes around in mud lanes full of dirty water, and makes his way in between the bikes, motorcycles, people crossing the street without checking if there are cars coming, other vehicles crossing without warning and, you bet it, RICKSHAWS!!! And I think to myself, what a wonderful world. Rickshaws in Colombia, who would think of it. They're moving around literally like mosquitoes infesting the traffic. Poor Barranquillero drivers. Well at least the people here have a quick and cheap mode of transportation.
Well it turns out it's the wrong bus. By the time we're approaching downtown I ask the guy sitting next to me if this was the way to the bus terminal. He starts explaining that no, the bus is going in the opposite direction and I'm better off taking a taxi there. Around this time pretty much the entire bus starts talking to us, and I kinda get dizzy as I simply cannot do 2 things at the same time LOL
One old lady offers to help us, she points where to go off, takes us accross the street, calls a cab and give the driver instructions as to where to take us, while also advises us that he can charge us maximum 6000 pesos. She's the hero of the day :)
Well it's not so bad as the taxi has air conditioning which is a bless considering it's about 75 degrees celsius outside.
He takes us to a place that has a bunch of trees. And a bunch of people waiting. No signs, no nothing. There's a yellow bus and a bunch of touts yelling at us that we must take it as it's leaving and it goes to Santa Marta. There we go, the guy overcharges us 1000 pesos, but it's okay, consider that a donation to the touts. The road to Santa Marta is a bless in itself with the blue Caribbean sea to the left and the mountains to the right.
High expectations in Santa Marta as it's home to the Tayrona Park, a fantastic set of more than 40 beaches.


Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Medellín

Medellín is the second largest city in Colombia. I must confess I only knew about it due to the famous drug cartel back in the 90s. Now Pablo Escobar is long dead and the FARC are ruling the cartel, so as it seems not much changed except for the fact that we don't hear about Medellín anymore.
The city is located in between 2 giant mountain chains, in the valley extending several km from north to south. The first thing you'll notice is that here people are more laid back than in Bogotá. I guess there's a limit in the size of cities before people start becoming stress zombies. Medellín has a lot less of them.
One of the highlights of the city is the Cable Metro. In short, it's a teleferic working as a metro. That means you can leave the metro and go right into the teleferic. It makes sense as the path upwards to some of the neighbourhoods only make sense in it.
It makes for spectacular views if not for the fact it goes over dozens of slums :)





Bogota Bike Tour


One of the best ways to get to know Bogota is to do the bike tour. It's COP 30.000 and it lasts about 4 hours.
During the trip you get to know several non touristic areas of Bogota while learning about Colombia's history and culture. And at the same time you have some exercise, although it's very light as the group will stop each 400m so the guide can explain the next region. Apparently we rode about 18km :)
We got to know La Candelaria, the Bolivar Square, several of the main roads and even where to buy your iPhone back if it gets stolen, LOL
The tour also makes stops on the public market full of fruits, vegetables, meat, fish and in a Coffee factory.
The only downside is that there are several "comercial breaks", the coffee factory being one of them.


Sunday, September 2, 2012

Zipaquirá - La Catedral de Sal


Breathtaking scenery and mind blowing moments await you just 1:30 hour away from Bogota.
The city of Zipaquirá used to be famous for the salt mines, but these days it became host of the first wonder of Colombia.
The Salt Cathedral!
Let me skip my rant about the fact the tour agencies charge COP 118000 per person when in fact you can do it by yourself
for only COP 36000 with about 10 minutes of google search. (Obviously I have chosen the second option).
Here's the website with more information: Catedral de Sal

The Salt Cathedral is very close to downtown, only a short walk. It sits on one of the many mountains surrounding the city.
In short, there's a salt mine and they have converted it into a Cathedral.
There are several attractions attached to it as well such as a museum, a lights show (see youtube video below)
and a walk through the path the salt miners used to walk.
Also from a hill nearby you can have a very good view of the city which is gorgeous by the way.
Before you get to the cathedral you walk by several stations with sculptures where each one of them represent
one step in the via crucis.
Down there, 180m underground, the lights make a spectacular effect.
In another giant room, they have placed thousands of mini lights on the ceiling and they illuminate them in such a way
to form images in the ceiling (like those Christmas lights).
It's one of those moments you feel good for being alive.
Another highlight is the path where the salt miners used to work. It includes wandering in the total darkness for about 2 minutes,
checking where the top of the cave fell down and laughing non stop at the jokes told by the guide. Honestly, this is the first
time I ever thought a guide would be useful.
So you have an idea, the sightseeing of the cathedral also had a guide, but the group moved so slowly and his stories were
so boring I simply gave up following them.
The Salt Cathedral with all its attractions is definitely a "must go before you die" thing.












Friday, August 31, 2012

Bogota photos


Sign in the bus waiting area



Traffic

Street View

Botero Painting





Cerro Monserrate





Situated 3200m above sea level this is a really interesting way to see the entire Bogotá. You get there by using the funicular, a little train that goes upwards in a 45 degrees incline. On the way there you already feel the altitude increasing in your ears, like when the airplane is taking off. The view is amazing and you can see a great amount of other mountains on the other side. This is like 5 minutes away from Bogotá.